Does a VA loan require a home inspection?
No — but that one-word answer has cost veterans a great deal of money. The VA requires an appraisal, which is a different document, ordered by a different party, for a different purpose. It is not a condition report and it was never meant to be one.
This guide separates the two properly: what the VA genuinely mandates, what your lender might add on top, what each professional actually looks at, what an inspection costs, and what tends to happen to the buyers who skip it. It also covers how to write an inspection contingency on a VA offer, how to negotiate repairs with a seller, and what to do when the appraiser flags a minimum property requirement failure.
What this guide covers
The short answer
A VA loan does not require a home inspection. It requires an appraisal. Those are two different documents produced by two different people for two different reasons, and conflating them is the single most common misunderstanding in the VA purchase process.
The appraisal is mandatory because the VA guarantees a portion of your loan and needs to know the property is worth what you are borrowing and is safe enough to live in. It is ordered by your lender, the appraiser is assigned by the VA rather than chosen by anyone in the transaction, and the report belongs to the lender. You receive a copy, but it was not written for you.
The home inspection is optional. You order it, you choose the inspector, you pay for it, and the report belongs to you. Nobody in the transaction sees it unless you show them. Its entire purpose is to tell you the condition of the house you are about to buy with no money down.
- The VA mandates the appraisal, never the inspection. There is no VA rule anywhere requiring a buyer to have a general home inspection performed, and no lender can cite VA policy as the reason for imposing one.
- Your lender may still require one. Lender overlays are permitted, and some lenders require an inspection on older properties, on rural properties with well and septic systems, or when the appraiser notes a concern they want investigated.
- The VA actively recommends getting one. The VA’s own borrower materials tell veterans that the appraisal is not a substitute for an inspection and encourage buyers to arrange one. The agency requires the appraisal for its own protection and recommends the inspection for yours.
- The appraiser is not looking for defects. They are looking for value and for a short list of safety and habitability failures. A roof with three years of life left passes. A twenty-year-old furnace running at 60% efficiency passes. A sewer line full of roots passes, because they never looked at it.
- A termite report may be mandatory depending on where you are. This is the one condition report the VA does require in many states, and in most of those the veteran is not allowed to pay for it.
- You are buying with zero equity. That is the reason the inspection matters more on a VA purchase than on a conventional one with 20% down. There is no cushion to borrow against when something expensive fails.
If you take one thing from this guide, take that last point. A conventional buyer who puts $60,000 down and discovers a $14,000 roof problem in year two has options: a home equity line, a cash-out refinance, a second mortgage. A VA buyer who put nothing down and financed the funding fee is underwater by the amount of that fee on day one, and stays there for a year or two. The inspection is the only stage at which that $14,000 is somebody else’s problem, or at least negotiable.
Inspection versus appraisal, side by side
Laying them next to each other makes the gap obvious, and the gap is where the expensive surprises live.
| VA appraisal | Home inspection | |
|---|---|---|
| Required? | Yes, always | No, optional |
| Who orders it | The lender | You |
| Who chooses the professional | The VA, from a rotational panel | You |
| Who pays | You, usually $600 – $1,000 | You, usually $300 – $600 |
| Who the report belongs to | The lender | You |
| Primary purpose | Establish market value | Establish condition |
| Secondary purpose | Confirm minimum property requirements | Give you a repair and negotiation list |
| Time on site | 30 – 60 minutes | 2 – 4 hours |
| Goes on the roof | No | Usually, or uses a drone or ladder |
| Enters crawl space or attic | Rarely | Yes, where accessible |
| Opens the electrical panel | No | Yes |
| Tests every outlet and fixture | No | Yes, or a representative sample |
| Gives you leverage with the seller | Only via required repairs | Yes, through the contingency |
| Typical report length | 10 – 20 pages, mostly comparables | 30 – 80 pages, mostly photos of problems |
Notice the asymmetry in what each document is trying to achieve. The appraiser answers the lender’s question: if we have to foreclose on this in two years, will it sell for enough to cover the loan, and is it safe enough that we are not lending on a hazard? The inspector answers your question: what is going to break, when, and what will it cost me?
Those questions overlap only at the extremes. A house with a collapsed roof fails both tests. A house with a roof that has four years of life left passes the appraisal comfortably and generates a prominent warning in the inspection report with a cost estimate attached. The second scenario is far more common than the first, and it is precisely the scenario the appraisal is not designed to catch.
The appraiser is not being lazy. A VA appraiser is doing exactly the job they are paid and licensed to do, competently, within a defined scope. That scope simply does not include condition assessment. Criticising an appraiser for missing a failing water heater is like criticising a surveyor for not noticing your neighbour’s tree is diseased. Different job, different instrument.
What the VA appraiser actually checks
The appraisal has two halves. The larger half is valuation: the appraiser measures the property, records its features, selects three to six comparable recent sales nearby, adjusts for differences, and arrives at an opinion of market value. None of that has anything to do with condition beyond broad categories like “average” or “good”.
The smaller half is the minimum property requirements review, and it is genuinely brief. The appraiser walks the house looking for a specific list of disqualifying conditions. If they find none, the appraisal comes back clean. If they find one, the appraisal comes back subject to repair and the named item must be fixed before closing.
What triggers a condition flag
Active roof leaks, missing handrails on stairs of four or more risers, exposed live wiring, a heating system that does not produce heat, broken or missing windows, evidence of standing water in a basement, peeling paint on a home built before 1978, an inoperable water supply, or visible structural movement.
What does not trigger anything
An old but functioning furnace. A roof with limited remaining life but no active leak. Outdated wiring that is safely enclosed. A cracked but drained sewer line. Failed window seals. A water heater at the end of its service life. Poor insulation. Rotten decking that is not part of the structure.
The right-hand column is the whole argument for the inspection. Every item in it is a real cost, often in the thousands, and none of it will appear in the document your lender orders. A furnace at twenty-two years of age has a statistically short remaining life and a replacement cost of $4,000 to $8,000, and the appraisal will simply record that a heating system is present and functioning.
The appraiser’s site visit is also short by design. Thirty to sixty minutes covers measuring, photographing, noting features and doing the MPR walk. An inspector on the same property spends two to four hours because they are opening panels, running every fixture, checking the attic, crawling under the house where possible, and photographing everything they find. The time difference alone tells you how much more they see. The broader appraisal process, including what happens when the value comes in low, is covered in how a VA loan works.
Minimum property requirements in plain terms
The VA’s minimum property requirements are the standard the appraiser applies during that brief condition walk. They exist to ensure the veteran is not being lent money to buy something unsafe, unsanitary or structurally unsound. They are a floor, not a quality bar.
- Safe and adequate access. The property must be reachable from a public or permanently maintained private road, and the entrance must be usable year-round.
- A working heating system. Sufficient to maintain a habitable temperature. Wood stoves as a sole heat source are scrutinised and often rejected. Air conditioning is never required, even in extreme climates.
- Safe water and sanitation. A continuous supply of potable water, working sanitary facilities, and safe sewage disposal. Well and septic systems must meet local health authority standards and are often tested.
- Electrical and plumbing that function safely. Not modern, not efficient — safe. Knob-and-tube wiring is a common flag; a 100-amp panel in a small house is not.
- A roof that keeps the weather out. No active leaks and reasonable remaining life. The appraiser judges this from the ground.
- Structural soundness. No visible evidence of serious settlement, failed foundations, or compromised framing.
- No lead-based paint hazards. On homes built before 1978, any peeling, chipping or scaling paint must be scraped and repainted regardless of whether lead is actually present.
- Free of known health and safety hazards. Active infestation, exposed asbestos, unvented gas appliances, and similar conditions must be resolved.
- Adequate living space. Space for living, sleeping, cooking and sanitation. This is why a property without a functioning kitchen can fail.
Read that list again with a buyer’s eye rather than a lender’s. Nothing in it protects you from an expensive year. A house can meet every MPR and still need $30,000 of work within thirty-six months. The requirements ask whether the property is fit to live in, not whether it is fit to buy at the price you agreed.
The peeling paint rule is the one that surprises people most, because it applies mechanically to any pre-1978 home regardless of test results. A flaking porch ceiling on a 1965 house will hold up an entire closing until it is scraped and painted, while a twenty-five-year-old furnace three feet away passes without comment. That is the MPR standard working exactly as designed — it is a hazard rule, not a condition rule.
Do not read a clean appraisal as a clean bill of health. Buyers routinely take the phrase “the appraisal came back with no repairs required” as confirmation the house is sound. It confirms only that the appraiser did not observe any of the nine or ten disqualifying conditions above during a forty-minute visit. It is the weakest possible assurance about a $300,000 purchase.
What a home inspector actually checks
A general home inspection is a systematic walk through every accessible system in the property, documented with photographs and a written assessment of condition and likely remaining life.
| System | What the inspector does | Typical failure cost |
|---|---|---|
| Roof | Walks it, or uses ladder or drone. Checks shingles, flashing, valleys, penetrations, and estimates remaining life. | $8,000 – $20,000 |
| Foundation and structure | Looks for cracking, movement, moisture intrusion, compromised framing, sagging floors. | $5,000 – $40,000+ |
| Electrical | Opens the panel, checks for aluminium wiring, double-tapped breakers, missing GFCI protection, tests outlets. | $2,000 – $15,000 |
| Plumbing | Runs fixtures, checks water pressure, identifies pipe material, looks for polybutylene and galvanised supply lines. | $3,000 – $18,000 |
| HVAC | Runs the system, notes age from the data plate, checks the flue, estimates remaining life. | $4,000 – $12,000 |
| Water heater | Age, capacity, venting, pressure relief valve, signs of corrosion or past leaks. | $1,200 – $3,000 |
| Attic and insulation | Enters where accessible. Ventilation, insulation depth, evidence of leaks, rodent activity. | $1,500 – $6,000 |
| Crawl space | Enters where accessible. Moisture, standing water, mould, pest damage, vapour barrier condition. | $2,000 – $15,000 |
| Windows and doors | Operation, seals, evidence of failed double glazing, rot in frames and sills. | $4,000 – $20,000 |
| Grading and drainage | Slope away from the foundation, gutters, downspout discharge, evidence of pooling. | $1,000 – $8,000 |
What the inspector does not do is also worth stating clearly, because unrealistic expectations create disappointment. They do not move furniture or stored belongings. They do not open walls. They do not dismantle appliances. They do not comment on cosmetic finish, and they do not tell you whether the price is fair. They also carry no liability for defects that were genuinely concealed at the time of the visit.
A good inspector will, however, tell you plainly which items are urgent, which are routine maintenance, and which are simply the reality of a house of that age. That triage is the real value of the report. A forty-page document listing eighty observations is useless without someone saying “three of these matter and the rest are normal”.
Ask for remaining-life estimates, not just defect lists. The most useful line in an inspection report is not “the water heater is functional” but “the water heater is fourteen years old against a typical twelve-year life, budget for replacement within twenty-four months”. That converts the report from a snapshot into a financial plan, which is what a zero-down buyer actually needs.
Why the VA does not require one
The reasoning is coherent once you see the VA’s position clearly. The agency is a guarantor, not a purchaser. Its exposure is limited to the guaranteed portion of the loan if you default and the property sells for less than the balance. That exposure is protected by two things: an accurate value opinion, and a property that is not a hazard. Both are delivered by the appraisal.
Condition beyond that floor is a consumer question, not a guarantor question. Whether your furnace lasts three years or fifteen does not affect the VA’s risk in any meaningful way, and mandating a $500 inspection on every transaction would add cost to a programme built around removing costs for veterans. So the VA requires what protects the guarantee and recommends what protects the buyer.
The consistency argument
No mainstream loan programme requires a home inspection. Conventional, FHA and USDA loans all require an appraisal and none requires an inspection. The VA is not an outlier here; it is following universal mortgage practice.
The cost argument
The VA loan exists to make homeownership cheaper and more accessible for veterans. Mandating an additional several hundred dollars of non-refundable cost on every offer, including offers that never reach closing, cuts against that purpose.
There is also a practical objection to mandating inspections that is rarely discussed: an inspection you are forced to buy is an inspection you may not read. Requirements breed box-ticking. A buyer who chooses to spend $450 and shows up to walk the property with the inspector extracts vastly more value than one who ordered it because a form said to.
The VA’s own guidance to borrowers is unusually direct on this. It tells veterans in plain language that the appraisal is not an inspection, that it should not be relied on as a statement of condition, and that arranging an independent inspection is a sensible step. That is close to the strongest recommendation an agency can make without turning it into a rule.
When your lender requires one anyway
The VA sets a floor, not a ceiling. Individual lenders may impose additional requirements — overlays — and inspections are a common one in specific circumstances.
- Well and septic systems. Very commonly required. A water potability test and a septic function test are standard conditions on rural properties, and the lender will not close without both.
- When the appraiser flags something they cannot assess. If the appraiser writes “possible structural movement, recommend evaluation by a qualified professional”, that recommendation becomes a loan condition. You will be buying a structural engineer’s report.
- Older properties. Some lenders require a general inspection on homes above a certain age, typically fifty or sixty years, or on homes that have been vacant for an extended period.
- Roof age. Where the appraiser notes limited remaining life, a roof certification from a licensed roofer stating a minimum remaining life is a frequent condition.
- Manufactured and mobile homes. Foundation certification by an engineer confirming the home is permanently affixed to a compliant foundation is effectively universal.
- Pest reports outside mandated states. A lender may require a wood-destroying organism report even where the VA does not, particularly in humid regions.
The distinction matters for who pays. A general home inspection you choose to order is yours to pay for, no question. A specialist report required by the lender as a loan condition is a different animal, and on a VA loan it may fall into the non-allowable fee category or may be negotiable onto the seller. Ask your loan officer explicitly whether a required report is a borrower cost or a seller cost before you write the cheque. The rules on what a veteran may and may not be charged are covered in the VA closing cost guide.
One more nuance worth knowing: a lender-required report is a condition of approval, and a bad result creates a genuine problem. If the structural engineer says the foundation needs $22,000 of underpinning, the lender will not fund until it is done or the value is re-established. That is a stronger position than an inspection contingency, because the deal cannot proceed at all rather than merely giving you the right to walk.
Ask about overlays at pre-approval, not at contract. Two minutes on the phone — “do you require a general inspection, and what triggers a specialist report?” — tells you what your true cost of due diligence will be. Rural buyers in particular should assume well, septic and pest testing will all be required and budget $400 to $700 for that layer alone.
What you are risking if you skip it
The case for the inspection is not theoretical. It is arithmetic, and the arithmetic is worse for a VA buyer than for anyone else because of the zero-down structure.
Inspection cost = $450 (one time, before closing)
Median major-defect discovery in year one = $6,000 – $15,000
Equity available to a zero-down buyer in year one = negative
Effective cost of a missed $12,000 defect = $12,000 from savings
That third line is the crux. Put 20% down on a $300,000 house and you have $60,000 of equity from day one, which is borrowable through a home equity product if the sewer line collapses. Buy the same house with a VA loan at zero down and finance the 2.15% funding fee, and you owe roughly $306,000 on a $300,000 house. There is nothing to borrow against for two to three years. Every repair comes out of cash.
The defects that hurt most
Sewer lateral collapse, foundation movement, hidden water damage behind finished surfaces, aluminium branch wiring, polybutylene supply plumbing, failed septic fields, and roofs at end of life. All are invisible in an appraisal and all cost five figures.
The defects that merely annoy
Failed window seals, worn flooring, dated fixtures, minor grading issues, tired paint. An inspection finds these too, and they are useful negotiating chips even though none of them is a reason to walk away.
There is a second, less obvious loss when you skip the inspection: you lose the information itself. Even a report that finds nothing alarming gives you a documented baseline of every system’s age and condition, which is a maintenance plan for the next decade. Knowing the water heater was installed in 2013 means you replace it on your schedule for $1,400 rather than on its schedule, at 11pm, after it floods the utility room.
A seller disclosure is not a substitute. Disclosures cover what the seller knows and remembers, and the standard is knowledge rather than diligence. A seller who has never been in the crawl space honestly discloses no crawl space problems. The disclosure protects you legally in narrow circumstances; it does not tell you the condition of the house.
What an inspection costs
Pricing is local and size-driven, but the ranges are consistent enough to budget from.
| Inspection | Typical cost | When you need it |
|---|---|---|
| General home inspection | $300 – $600 | Every purchase. Larger and older homes sit at the top of the range. |
| Sewer scope | $150 – $350 | Any home over about forty years old, or any home with mature trees near the lateral. |
| Radon test | $100 – $200 | Known radon zones. Mitigation, if needed, runs $800 – $2,500. |
| Wood-destroying organism report | $75 – $150 | Required by the VA in many states. Often paid by the seller. |
| Septic inspection and pump | $300 – $600 | Any property on septic. Usually a lender condition rather than optional. |
| Well water potability and flow | $150 – $400 | Any property on a private well. Usually a lender condition. |
| Structural engineer report | $400 – $1,000 | When the general inspection or the appraiser flags movement or cracking. |
| Mould assessment | $300 – $800 | Visible growth, musty odour, or a history of water intrusion. |
| Chimney and fireplace | $150 – $400 | Any working fireplace, particularly wood-burning. |
| Pool and spa | $150 – $400 | Any property with one. Equipment failures are expensive and invisible. |
A realistic total for a typical suburban VA purchase is $450 to $800 — a general inspection plus a sewer scope, plus a radon test if you are in a radon area. A rural purchase with well and septic lands closer to $900 to $1,400 once the lender-required tests are added. Against a $300,000 purchase, that is between 0.15% and 0.45% of the price, and it is the only money in the transaction that is genuinely optional.
Payment is due at the time of service, not at closing, which is worth planning for. A veteran buying with zero down and seller-paid closing costs may have arranged the transaction so that almost no cash is needed — and then discovers that $700 of inspection fees are payable in week one, well before any of the closing arrangements take effect. That gap catches people out. The overall cash-at-closing picture is set out in whether VA loans require a down payment.
The sewer scope is the highest-value $250 in the process. A collapsed or root-invaded lateral costs $8,000 to $25,000 to replace, is completely invisible in every other inspection, and is common in homes built before about 1980. On any older property with established trees, treat it as part of the standard inspection rather than an extra.
Specialist inspections worth buying
The general inspection is broad and shallow by design. Where it flags something, or where the property type carries a known risk, a specialist goes deep on one system.
Sewer scope on anything pre-1980
A camera goes down the lateral from the house to the municipal main. It finds root intrusion, bellies where waste collects, cracked clay pipe, and previous patch repairs. Cast iron and clay laterals of that era are at or past their design life, and the failure mode is sewage in the basement.
Structural engineer where cracks are noted
A home inspector will tell you a crack exists and that they cannot determine its significance. An engineer tells you whether it is settlement that stopped thirty years ago or active movement, and what it costs to remedy. Worth every dollar because the range between those two answers is $0 and $40,000.
Roof certification when life is limited
A licensed roofer inspects and issues a certificate stating remaining life, usually two, three or five years. Lenders sometimes require this. Even when they do not, it converts “the roof looks tired” into a documented number you can negotiate against.
Septic inspection with the tank pumped
A visual inspection of a septic system tells you almost nothing. The tank has to be pumped and the baffles and drain field assessed. A failed leach field is a $10,000 to $30,000 repair and is one of the largest single risks in rural property purchase.
Well flow rate and water quality
Potability covers bacteria and nitrates; flow rate covers whether the well produces enough water for a household. A well delivering two gallons per minute will disappoint a family of five regardless of how clean the water is.
Radon in known zones
A forty-eight-hour passive test costs little and the mitigation, if needed, is a fan and a pipe for $800 to $2,500. Straightforward and frequently seller-funded once documented.
Chimney scan on wood-burning fireplaces
A level-two chimney inspection with a camera finds cracked flue liners, which are both a fire risk and a $3,000 to $8,000 repair. Standard home inspections look at the firebox and stop there.
Sequencing matters. Book the general inspection first, attend it, and let the inspector’s findings drive which specialists you call. Ordering four specialist reports before the general inspection wastes money on systems that turn out to be fine, and it burns days off a contingency period that is usually only seven to ten days long.
Do not let the seller’s contractor perform the specialist assessment. A seller who offers to have “their guy” look at the foundation is offering you an opinion written by someone whose future work depends on the seller. Pay for your own, choose the professional yourself, and make sure the report is addressed to you.
The termite report the VA does require
There is one condition report the VA mandates in a large part of the country: the wood-destroying insect report, sometimes called a WDI or WDO report or simply the termite letter.
Where it applies
The VA regional loan centre serving the property decides whether a report is required, based on regional termite pressure. Most of the South, Southeast, Southwest and mid-Atlantic require it. Northern and mountain states frequently do not.
Who pays for it
In most jurisdictions where it is required, the veteran is not permitted to pay for it. The cost falls to the seller or, where the seller refuses, to the lender or the agent. This is a VA borrower protection, not a negotiating position.
The report is inexpensive — typically $75 to $150 — and it covers active infestation and evidence of previous damage. If active infestation is found, treatment must be completed before closing and evidence of treatment provided. If structural damage is found, repair is required and may need engineering sign-off, which can add weeks.
Do not mistake the termite letter for a general inspection. It covers insects and the damage they cause, nothing else. A property can pass a WDO inspection cleanly and still have a failing roof, a dead furnace and a collapsed sewer line. The two documents share no overlap at all.
Ask your loan officer which VA regional loan centre covers your property. Requirements differ across state lines and sometimes within a state. Knowing early tells you whether the termite report is a seller obligation you should reference in the offer, or an item that will not arise at all. General property eligibility rules are set out in the VA loan requirements guide.
When to schedule the inspection
Timing is tight and the sequence matters, because the contingency clock starts at contract acceptance rather than when you get round to booking.
Day zero: offer accepted
The inspection contingency period begins. Seven to ten days is typical, and some competitive markets have compressed it to five. Call an inspector the same day, before you do anything else.
Days one to three: general inspection performed
Good inspectors book out. Calling on day one usually gets you a slot within seventy-two hours; calling on day four often does not. Attend it in person if you possibly can.
Days three to five: specialists if needed
The general report drives this. A sewer scope can usually be arranged within forty-eight hours. A structural engineer may take a week, which is why an extension request sometimes becomes necessary.
Days five to eight: decide and respond
Accept the property as-is, request repairs, request a credit, request a price reduction, or withdraw. This has to be delivered in writing within the contingency window or the contingency lapses and you lose the right to walk.
After the contingency clears: appraisal ordered
Where your lender allows it, hold the appraisal until inspection issues are resolved. The appraisal costs $600 to $1,000 and is not refundable. Paying for it on a house you then walk away from over a foundation is money burned.
That last step is worth pushing on. Some lenders order the appraisal automatically at contract, which puts your $800 at risk before you know anything about the condition of the property. Ask at pre-approval whether they will hold the appraisal until your inspection contingency clears. Many will if you ask; almost none will offer.
The counterweight is the overall timeline. Holding the appraisal adds a week to a process that already runs thirty to forty-five days, and in a market where the seller has other options, delay creates risk. If the property is straightforward and you are confident, running them in parallel is defensible. On an older or unusual property, sequencing them is the better bet. The overall closing timeline is broken down in how long a VA loan takes.
The contingency deadline is absolute. Miss it by an hour and, in most standard contracts, you have accepted the property in its current condition and your deposit is at risk if you then withdraw. Diary the date and time, and send your response in writing well before it, not on the afternoon it expires.
The inspection contingency and how to write it
The inspection itself gives you information. The contingency is what turns that information into leverage. Without one, you can discover a $19,000 problem and have no contractual route to do anything about it except close and pay.
An inspection contingency is a clause in the purchase agreement that makes your obligation to buy conditional on your satisfaction with the property’s condition. It has three moving parts, and each one is negotiable separately: how long you have, what standard applies, and what remedies are available to you.
| Contingency term | Buyer-friendly version | Seller-friendly version |
|---|---|---|
| Length | 14 days | 5 days |
| Standard | Sole and absolute discretion of the buyer | Only defects exceeding a stated dollar threshold |
| Remedy | Withdraw, request repairs, request credit, or reduce price | Withdraw only, no renegotiation |
| Deposit treatment | Fully refundable on timely notice | Partially forfeited or released early |
| Extensions | Automatic on written request for specialist reports | None, or seller consent required |
| Re-inspection right | Included after repairs, at seller cost | Not included |
The most valuable phrase in the entire clause is “sole and absolute discretion”. It means you do not have to prove that a defect is material, expensive or even real. You simply have to say, in writing and on time, that you are not satisfied. Contingencies drafted with a threshold — “buyer may terminate only where the cost of identified repairs exceeds $5,000” — invite an argument about contractor estimates at exactly the moment you least want one.
Length is the second lever, and buyers routinely under-negotiate it. Ten days sounds generous until the general inspection on day three recommends a structural engineer who cannot attend until day nine and issues a report on day thirteen. Ask for fourteen days at offer, expect to settle at ten, and build in an automatic extension where a specialist report has been ordered in writing within the original window.
Notice must be in writing and delivered the way the contract says. Text messages to the listing agent are not notice under most standard agreements. If the contract specifies email to a named address, or a particular form delivered through the brokerage, use exactly that channel and keep proof of delivery with a timestamp. Contingency disputes are almost never about whether the buyer was unhappy; they are about whether the buyer said so properly.
There is a VA-specific interaction worth understanding. Every VA purchase contract must also contain the VA escape clause — the amendatory language that lets a veteran withdraw without penalty if the property appraises below the contract price. That clause is mandatory, non-waivable and separate from your inspection contingency. It protects value, not condition. Keeping both is normal and neither substitutes for the other.
Some buyers try to compress everything into a single “due diligence period” covering inspection, appraisal, financing and title. That is fine where the period is genuinely long enough — twenty-one days or more — but on a VA purchase the appraisal alone can take ten business days to be assigned and returned. Bundling a seven-day due diligence period that must cover a VA appraisal is a contingency that expires before the information arrives.
Reading the inspection report without panicking
The first inspection report most buyers read is genuinely alarming. Forty to eighty pages, dozens of red-flagged photographs, and language that makes a loose handrail sound like a structural emergency. Almost none of it is a reason to walk away, and knowing how to triage it is the difference between negotiating well and either overreacting or missing the one item that matters.
Tier one — negotiate or walk
Structural movement, foundation failure, active water intrusion, failed septic, collapsed sewer lateral, roof at end of life, aluminium branch wiring, polybutylene supply plumbing, extensive mould, unpermitted structural additions. Four to five figures each, and several are effectively uninsurable until remedied.
Tier two — worth raising
HVAC or water heater near end of life, missing GFCI protection, poor grading, gutters discharging at the foundation, deteriorated deck framing, double-tapped breakers, absent attic ventilation. Hundreds to low thousands, and mostly things a seller will contribute toward.
Everything else is tier three: the enormous middle of the report made up of missing outlet covers, sticking doors, hairline stucco cracks, a slow bathroom drain, a fence panel down. Raising these makes you look unserious and weakens your position on the items that actually matter. A repair request listing twenty-eight items gets a flat refusal. A repair request listing three, with the inspector’s photographs attached, gets a conversation.
Read the summary section first — every competent report has one — and then read the detail only for items the summary escalated. Then call the inspector. Almost all of them will spend fifteen minutes on the phone talking you through what worried them and what did not, and that conversation is more useful than the document. Ask them directly: “if this were your purchase, what would you do about it?”
- Separate age from failure. A twenty-year-old furnace that runs is not a defect; it is a budgeting fact. Treat it as a reserve line, not a repair demand.
- Look for what the inspector could not access. “Crawl space not entered due to standing water” is a bigger finding than most of the flagged items. Unaccessed areas need follow-up, not acceptance.
- Check the electrical panel brand. Federal Pacific Stab-Lok and Zinsco panels are recognised fire risks and a $1,800 to $3,500 replacement, and insurers increasingly refuse to write policies over them.
- Cross-check against the seller’s disclosure. Anything the inspector found that the seller denied knowing about is worth pressing on, both for the repair and for what it tells you about the counterparty.
- Get quotes before you ask. “The roof needs work” invites a $500 offer. “Three roofers quoted $14,200 to $16,800, here are the estimates” invites a real number.
- Do not skip the photographs. Text descriptions understate; the photograph of the corroded flue or the rusted-through water heater base is what moves a seller.
Negotiating repairs with the seller
Once you know what matters, you have four routes and they are not equally good on a VA purchase.
Ask the seller to make the repairs
Simple to propose, frequently the worst outcome in practice. A seller who is leaving has every incentive to hire the cheapest contractor available and no incentive to supervise. If you go this route, specify a licensed contractor, require receipts and permits where applicable, and reserve a re-inspection right before closing.
Ask for a closing cost credit
Usually the best structure for a VA buyer. You control the contractor, the timing and the quality, and the credit reduces the cash you need at closing. VA rules allow seller concessions, and closing cost contributions are among the most flexible tools in the transaction. The constraint is that a credit cannot generally exceed your actual closing costs, so a very large credit may not fit.
Ask for a price reduction
Cleanest where the credit will not fit or where the defect genuinely affects value. The catch is that a lower price on a zero-down loan saves you very little in monthly terms — $10,000 off a $300,000 purchase moves the payment by roughly $60 — while a $10,000 credit puts $10,000 of usable cash into the transaction immediately. Prefer the credit unless the appraisal is also under pressure.
Accept it and proceed
Entirely reasonable where the findings are tier two and the price already reflects the property’s age. Do it deliberately, with a written reserve figure, rather than by default because you did not want to have the conversation.
Tone matters more than most buyers expect. Repair negotiation is where transactions die, and they usually die over how the request was framed rather than what it contained. A short cover note that says what you love about the house, lists three items with attached documentation, and states plainly that you want to proceed, will outperform a twelve-item demand letter every time — even when the underlying money is identical.
Understand the seller’s alternative too. If they refuse and you withdraw, they go back on the market with a known inspection history, a disclosure obligation for anything your inspector found, and a new set of days on market. That is a genuinely bad outcome for them, and it is the reason reasonable requests usually land. It is also why unreasonable requests do not: a seller who believes you are simply re-trading the price will call it and take the risk.
Watch the funding-fee and concession ceiling. Seller concessions on a VA loan are capped at 4% of the value for certain categories, and closing cost credits interact with that limit and with what the appraisal supports. Before you agree a large credit, have your loan officer confirm in writing that the structure works. Discovering at underwriting that $9,000 of the agreed $12,000 credit cannot be applied is a very late problem. The full picture on fees is in the VA funding fee guide.
When the appraisal flags a required repair
This is a different situation from an inspection finding, and it is worth being precise about the difference. An inspection finding gives you the option to act. An appraisal condition removes everyone’s options: the loan cannot close until the item is remedied and confirmed.
The appraiser writes the report “subject to” the named repair. A re-inspection follows once the work is done — usually the same appraiser returning, at a fee of $100 to $200 — and the appraisal is then updated to “as repaired”. Only then does the file move forward.
| Common MPR flag | Typical remedy | Typical cost |
|---|---|---|
| Peeling paint, pre-1978 home | Scrape, prime, repaint affected surfaces | $300 – $2,500 |
| Missing stair handrail | Install compliant rail | $150 – $600 |
| Non-functioning heating system | Repair or replace | $400 – $8,000 |
| Active roof leak | Repair or partial replacement | $500 – $15,000 |
| Broken or missing window glazing | Reglaze or replace units | $200 – $1,500 |
| Exposed or unsafe wiring | Licensed electrician remediation | $300 – $4,000 |
| Standing water in crawl space | Drainage correction, sometimes a sump | $1,000 – $9,000 |
| Wood-destroying insect damage | Treatment plus structural repair | $800 – $12,000 |
| Inoperable well or septic | Repair, replace, or reconnect | $3,000 – $30,000 |
The question that follows is always the same: who pays? There is no VA rule assigning responsibility. It is a contract negotiation. In practice the seller usually pays, because the item is a barrier to any VA or FHA buyer and will resurface with the next one. Where the seller genuinely will not or cannot, there are three workarounds worth knowing.
- The buyer pays for the repair on the seller’s property. Legal but risky. You are spending money on a house you do not own, and if the deal collapses afterwards you have no route to recover it. Only do this on small sums, and get the seller’s written agreement to reimburse if closing fails for a reason outside your control.
- An escrow holdback. Funds are retained at closing and released once the repair is completed afterwards. Lenders permit this in limited circumstances, typically for weather-delayed exterior work, and it requires lender approval in advance rather than a same-day request.
- Restructure to a renovation loan. Where the required repairs are extensive, the VA renovation product finances the purchase and the work together. It is slower and fewer lenders offer it, but it turns an unfinanceable property into a financeable one. Which lenders actually offer it is covered in the VA renovation lender guide.
One myth deserves killing here. Appraisal-required repairs on a VA loan are not unusually onerous compared with FHA, and the belief that VA offers are harder for sellers to accept is largely folklore repeated by agents who have not written one recently. The MPR list and the FHA minimum property standards overlap almost completely. If your agent tells the listing agent that a VA offer means fewer repair demands than a conventional buyer’s inspection contingency would generate, they are telling the truth.
New construction and why it still needs inspecting
The most confident inspection-skippers are new-build buyers, and they are the ones who most often regret it. A brand-new house has never been lived in, which means no system in it has ever been proven under load, and every defect in it is a construction defect rather than a wear-and-tear item.
New construction under a VA loan sits in its own category. Where the property is built by a VA-approved builder against VA-accepted plans, there is a system of stage inspections — typically at footing, at framing, and at completion — carried out by a VA-approved inspector or a local authority. Those are structural compliance checks against the plans and the code. They are not a consumer condition report, they are not commissioned by you, and you generally do not choose the inspector.
What the builder’s warranty covers
Typically one year on workmanship and materials, two years on systems such as plumbing, electrical and HVAC, and ten years on major structural elements. VA construction financing requires a one-year builder warranty as a minimum, and often a ten-year insured structural warranty where the builder is not carrying full VA approval.
What the warranty does not do
It does not find the defect for you. Every warranty is claim-driven, and claims made in month eleven are honoured while claims made in month thirteen are not. An independent inspection at the end of the first year is what converts a warranty from a piece of paper into money.
The right pattern on a new build is three inspections, not one. A pre-drywall inspection while framing, wiring, plumbing and ducting are still visible — this is the only chance anyone will ever have to see them. A pre-closing or walk-through inspection to generate the punch list. And an eleven-month inspection before the workmanship warranty expires, which is routinely the most financially productive $450 a new-build owner ever spends.
Pre-drywall, roughly at week eight to twelve
Framing errors, missing hangers, notched or drilled structural members, plumbing runs without proper support, HVAC ducting crushed or disconnected, missing fire blocking, window flashing done wrong. All invisible forever once the drywall goes up.
Final walk-through, days before closing
Grading and drainage away from the foundation, roof and flashing detail, attic ventilation and insulation depth against spec, every outlet and fixture, appliance operation, HVAC balance room by room, door and window operation, and the exterior envelope.
Eleven-month warranty inspection
After a full cycle of seasons, settlement cracks, sticking doors, HVAC underperformance, roof and flashing leaks and grading failures have all had time to appear. Submit the full report as a warranty claim before the anniversary.
Builders will discourage independent inspection, and you should ignore them. The standard objections are that the county already inspected it, that the site is a liability risk, and that their own quality process covers it. County inspection is a code minimum check that takes minutes. Site access can be arranged with notice. And a builder’s internal QC reports to the builder. Insist, in writing, at contract signing — retrofitting an inspection right into a builder contract after the fact rarely works. If you are financing the build itself rather than buying a finished home, the mechanics are different again and are covered in using a VA loan to build a house.
Foreclosures, as-is sales and estate properties
These are the transactions where the inspection matters most and where buyers most often go without one, usually because the seller has said no repairs will be made and the buyer concludes there is no point looking.
That reasoning is backwards. The purpose of the inspection on an as-is purchase is not to generate a repair list. It is to decide whether to buy at all, and at what price. “As-is” restricts the remedy; it does not restrict your right to look, and it certainly does not restrict your right to walk away.
- Utilities are frequently off. A bank-owned property with no power, no gas and no water cannot have its HVAC, plumbing or electrical tested at all. Insist that utilities are turned on for the inspection, or accept that entire systems will be unassessed and price that risk in.
- Winterised plumbing hides a great deal. Pipes drained and antifreeze-filled cannot be pressure-tested. Freeze damage is common in vacant homes and typically only reveals itself when the system is recharged, which may be after you own it.
- There is no seller disclosure. Banks, estates and relocation companies sell exempt from disclosure obligations because they never lived there. Everything you know about the property is what your inspector tells you.
- Vacancy causes its own damage. Dry traps, seized valves, rodent intrusion, mould from lack of ventilation, and roof damage that went unnoticed for two years. None of it is exotic and all of it is expensive.
- Stripped systems happen. Copper pipe, HVAC condensers, and even wiring are removed from vacant properties. An inspector notices; a walk-through with an agent frequently does not.
- Timelines are short and rigid. Institutional sellers impose tight inspection windows and grant extensions reluctantly. Have your inspector lined up before the offer is accepted, not after.
The interaction with VA minimum property requirements is the real constraint on this category. A distressed property that fails MPRs cannot be financed with a standard VA purchase loan until the failures are fixed, and an as-is seller will not fix them. That is the dead end most veterans hit on foreclosures: the price is attractive precisely because the condition is poor, and the condition is poor in exactly the ways that block the financing. The routes through it are covered in buying a foreclosure with a VA loan and, where the work is substantial, in buying a fixer-upper with a VA loan.
An inspection performed before the appraisal is ordered is unusually valuable here. If the inspector tells you the furnace does not run and the roof has an active leak, you already know the appraisal will come back subject to repairs the seller has refused to make. That is $800 of appraisal fee saved and two weeks of your life returned, on the strength of a $450 report.
Estate sales sit between the two. The family selling a deceased parent’s home is often genuinely willing to negotiate but genuinely unable to answer questions about the property. They may accept a price adjustment where they would not accept managing a contractor. Lead with a credit request rather than a repair request and the conversation usually goes better.
Choosing an inspector properly
Inspector quality varies enormously and price is a poor guide. The $650 inspector and the $325 inspector are frequently doing very different jobs, and the difference does not show up until you own the house.
- Check licensing where your state requires it. Roughly two-thirds of states license home inspectors. In the rest, anyone may print a business card, which makes association membership the only meaningful screen.
- Look for InterNACHI or ASHI membership. Both impose standards of practice, continuing education requirements and a code of ethics. Neither guarantees a good inspector, but the absence of either on an unlicensed inspector is a real warning.
- Ask how many inspections they perform per day. Two is normal. Four means ninety minutes per house including travel and report writing, which is not an inspection.
- Ask for a sample report before booking. A good sample is photograph-heavy, has a clear prioritised summary, and gives remaining-life estimates. A sample that is a checklist of ticks with a two-line comment field tells you exactly what you will receive.
- Confirm they carry errors and omissions insurance. Not because you expect to claim, but because insurers underwrite inspectors and an uninsurable inspector is uninsurable for a reason.
- Ask what they will not do. Honest inspectors are quick to tell you they do not walk roofs above a certain pitch, do not enter crawl spaces below a certain clearance, and do not assess structures. Vague answers mean vague scope.
- Ask about experience with your property type. Manufactured homes, log homes, historic properties, homes on piers, and rural properties on well and septic all have specific failure modes. The full property eligibility picture for unusual homes is in buying a mobile home with a VA loan.
The one screen worth applying above all others is independence. An inspector recommended by the listing agent has a structural conflict, and even an honest one is operating inside a referral relationship that depends on transactions closing. Your own agent’s recommendation is better but not clean for the same reason. The strongest choice is one you found yourself, from a review history you read yourself, with no relationship to anyone being paid at closing.
That said, do not overcorrect into paranoia. The great majority of agent-referred inspectors are competent professionals who get referred because they are good. The point is to verify rather than assume: read their reviews, look at a sample report, and ask the questions above. If the answers are good, the referral source stops mattering.
Beware the inspector who also offers to do the repairs. In states where this is legal it is still a conflict, and in several states it is explicitly prohibited. Someone who writes the defect list and then quotes on fixing it has an obvious incentive to lengthen the list. Use an inspector who inspects and a contractor who repairs, and keep them separate.
Attending the inspection, and what to ask
You are entitled to attend, and you should. The report is a document; the walk-through is an education. Three hours with a competent inspector teaches you more about the house you are about to own than the entire rest of the transaction combined.
Arrive at the start, not the end
Many buyers turn up for the last thirty minutes for a summary. That is the least useful part. The exterior, roof and foundation review happens first and it is where the expensive findings live.
Follow, do not lead
Let the inspector work in their own sequence. Save questions for natural breaks between systems rather than interrupting each observation, or the inspection takes five hours and the report suffers.
Ask where the shut-offs are
Main water shut-off, gas meter valve, electrical panel main breaker, individual fixture stops, and the furnace emergency switch. Learning this on the day of a burst pipe is a bad plan, and no other person in the transaction will ever show you.
Ask what they would do first
The single most useful question available. Inspectors are trained to report without advising, but almost all of them will answer a direct question about priority if asked plainly, and their answer is the triage you need.
Photograph the data plates yourself
Furnace, air handler, water heater, and electrical panel. Model and serial numbers give you exact ages, warranty status and parts availability later, and they are useful when you are pricing replacements.
Bring your partner and leave the children
Both decision-makers hearing the same thing at the same time prevents a great deal of subsequent disagreement. Children make it impossible to concentrate, and construction sites and crawl space hatches are genuinely unsafe for them.
A short list of questions worth asking out loud, because the answers rarely appear in the report in a form you can act on: how long has this roof got; how old is the heating system and what will replacing it cost; is there any evidence this house has taken water; what would you want to look at more closely if you had another hour; and is there anything about this property that surprised you.
That last one is disproportionately productive. Inspectors see hundreds of houses a year and develop strong instincts about which ones are odd. “The addition at the back has no permit history I can see and the floor slopes into it” is the kind of sentence that never makes it into a standardised report field but changes what you do next.
Take your own notes. The report arrives within twenty-four to forty-eight hours, but the conversation does not. Write down what the inspector said verbally about priority and cost, because a good deal of the most useful commentary is spoken and never written — professional liability makes inspectors conservative on paper and candid in person.
Using the report after you close
Most buyers read the report once, use it to negotiate, and never open it again. That wastes the more valuable half of what they paid for. The report is a complete condition and age audit of every system in the property, and it is the raw material for a ten-year maintenance and reserve plan.
| System | Typical service life | Replacement cost | Monthly reserve |
|---|---|---|---|
| Asphalt shingle roof | 20 – 25 years | $9,000 – $20,000 | $45 – $70 |
| Gas furnace | 15 – 20 years | $4,000 – $8,000 | $22 – $36 |
| Air conditioning condenser | 12 – 18 years | $4,500 – $9,000 | $28 – $50 |
| Water heater, tank | 10 – 13 years | $1,200 – $2,800 | $10 – $20 |
| Exterior paint | 7 – 12 years | $4,000 – $12,000 | $40 – $85 |
| Windows, whole house | 25 – 40 years | $10,000 – $25,000 | $25 – $60 |
| Kitchen appliances | 10 – 15 years | $3,000 – $8,000 | $20 – $50 |
| Deck, wood | 15 – 20 years | $5,000 – $15,000 | $25 – $65 |
| Sewer lateral | 50 – 100 years | $8,000 – $25,000 | $10 – $25 |
Take the report, note the age of each system, subtract from the service life, and you have a schedule. A house where the roof has four years left, the furnace has six and the water heater has one is a house that needs roughly $250 a month set aside, starting immediately. That is not a reason not to buy it. It is a reason to know before you commit, and to include it in the affordability calculation rather than discovering it afterwards.
This matters more on a VA purchase than on any other loan type, and for a reason worth stating plainly: the payment you qualify for is not the payment you live with. A zero-down borrower approved at the top of their debt-to-income ratio, with no reserve line for maintenance, is one water heater away from a credit card balance. Building the reserve into the affordability number from the start is the single most useful thing the inspection report gives you. Run the housing number properly using how much house you can afford on a VA loan, then add the reserve on top of it rather than inside it.
- Keep the report permanently. When you sell, it documents what was disclosed to you and what you subsequently fixed. That is a strong position in the next disclosure conversation.
- Fix the safety items in month one. GFCI protection, smoke and carbon monoxide detectors, handrails, and any electrical finding. These are cheap, fast and the only ones with a genuine injury risk attached.
- Attack water first. Grading, gutters, downspout extensions and flashing are the least glamorous repairs in the report and they prevent the most expensive damage in the house.
- Photograph what you fix. Receipts and before-and-after photographs raise resale value in a way that verbal assurance does not, and they support warranty and insurance claims.
- Revisit the report annually. Fifteen minutes each year against the schedule above tells you what is coming, and turns emergencies into planned purchases at a fraction of the cost.
- Use it for insurance conversations. A documented roof age, panel type and plumbing material makes a difference to what carriers will write and at what premium.
Waiving the inspection in a competitive market
In a market with multiple offers on every listing, buyers waive inspections to compete. It is a real strategy with real consequences, and the honest assessment is that it is a worse trade for a VA buyer than for almost anyone else.
The reason is the equity position. A conventional buyer with 20% down who discovers a $16,000 problem has $60,000 of equity, a HELOC option and a refinance option. A VA buyer at zero down, having financed the funding fee, owes more than the house is worth on the day they close and stays there for a year or two while the balance amortises and the market does whatever it does. Every unexpected repair in that window comes from savings or from credit at 22%.
Waiving the contingency
You still have the inspection performed, you just give up the contractual right to renegotiate or withdraw based on it. You get the information and the maintenance plan; you lose the leverage. This is the sensible middle path and it is nearly as attractive to sellers as a full waiver.
Waiving the inspection entirely
You buy blind. No information, no leverage, no maintenance plan, and no idea whether the sewer lateral is intact. This is the version to avoid, and it saves you a few hundred dollars against a five-figure downside.
There are other ways to win a competitive offer that cost less than blindness. Shortening the inspection period to five days signals seriousness without giving up the right to look. Committing to a pre-inspection before offering — paying $450 to inspect a house you may not get — lets you waive with actual knowledge. Agreeing to a repair threshold, where you may only renegotiate over items exceeding a stated figure, gives the seller comfort against nickel-and-diming while protecting you from catastrophe. Flexibility on closing date, on possession after closing, or on personal property is frequently worth more to a seller than the inspection clause is.
Never waive on a property you have not walked through carefully yourself. If competitive pressure forces a decision, the absolute minimum is a long, slow personal walk-through with the water running, every light switched on, the heating and cooling both cycled, and time spent in the basement, attic and crawl space with a torch. It is not an inspection, but it catches the catastrophic and it takes an hour.
It is also worth checking whether the pressure is real. VA offers carry a reputation among some listing agents for being slower and more repair-heavy, and that reputation drives buyers into waiving things they should not. In practice a well-documented VA offer from a pre-approved borrower with a responsive lender closes at rates comparable to conventional financing. A strong pre-approval letter, a lender the listing agent can phone, and a realistic timeline do more for your competitiveness than surrendering your inspection rights. The realities of the VA offer’s reputation are covered in whether VA loans are actually good.
Mistakes to avoid
These are the errors that recur, in rough order of how much they cost the people who make them.
- Treating the appraisal as an inspection. The most expensive misunderstanding in the process. “It passed the VA appraisal” means the property is not a hazard and is worth the price. It says nothing about the furnace, the sewer line, the roof’s remaining life, or anything else that will cost you money.
- Skipping it because the house looks new. New paint and new flooring are the two cheapest things to install and the two most effective at concealing what is behind them. Recently flipped properties warrant more scrutiny, not less.
- Booking on day four of a seven-day contingency. Good inspectors book out. Losing three days at the front means no room for a specialist follow-up, and no room means accepting an unknown or losing the deal.
- Ordering the appraisal before the inspection clears. Where the lender allows sequencing, use it. Paying $800 for an appraisal on a house you walk away from over a foundation is avoidable and it happens constantly.
- Not attending. The verbal commentary is worth more than the document, and it is available only once.
- Submitting a twenty-item repair request. It reads as re-trading the price and it gets refused wholesale. Three items with documentation attached gets a real answer.
- Asking for repairs instead of a credit. On a VA purchase the credit is almost always the better instrument. You control the contractor, the timing and the standard, and the cash arrives at closing when you need it.
- Using the listing agent’s recommended inspector. The conflict is structural even where the individual is honest. Find your own.
- Ignoring “not accessed” notes. A crawl space that could not be entered because of standing water is not a neutral observation. Unaccessed areas need follow-up before the contingency expires, not acceptance.
- Skipping the sewer scope on an older home. A $250 test against an $8,000 to $25,000 repair that no other inspection will find. On any pre-1980 property with mature trees, treat it as standard.
- Assuming a new build does not need one. Every defect in a new house is a construction defect, and the pre-drywall window closes permanently once the board goes up.
- Waiving on a distressed or as-is property. The seller refusing repairs is exactly why you need to know what is wrong. The purpose of the inspection there is the decision to buy, not the repair list.
- Missing the contingency deadline. A day late and you have accepted the property in its current condition, with your deposit exposed if you then try to withdraw.
- Filing the report and forgetting it. It is a decade-long maintenance schedule and a reserve calculation. Using it once, for negotiation, throws away half of what you bought.
Frequently asked questions
Does a VA loan require a home inspection?
No. The VA requires an appraisal, which includes a limited review of the property against minimum property requirements, but it does not require a home inspection. A home inspection is optional and paid for by the buyer. Almost every experienced VA lender, agent and the VA itself recommend getting one, because the appraisal is not designed to find defects and routinely misses problems that cost thousands to fix.
What is the difference between a VA appraisal and a home inspection?
The appraisal is ordered by the lender, assigned by the VA, and exists to protect the lender by establishing value and confirming the property meets basic safety standards. The inspection is ordered by you, chosen by you, and exists to tell you the condition of the house. The appraiser spends perhaps forty-five minutes and does not enter crawl spaces or test systems. The inspector spends three hours and does.
Can a VA lender require a home inspection?
Yes. The VA does not require one, but an individual lender may impose it as an overlay, and lenders sometimes require specialist inspections such as a septic, well, roof or structural report when the appraiser flags a concern. A lender-required inspection is a condition of your loan approval, so it is not optional even though the VA does not mandate it.
How much does a home inspection cost on a VA purchase?
A general home inspection typically costs $300 to $600 depending on the size and age of the property and your local market. Specialist inspections add to that: sewer scope $150 to $350, radon $100 to $200, pest or wood-destroying organism $75 to $150, and a structural engineer’s report $400 to $1,000. The buyer pays, and the fee is due at the time of service rather than at closing.
Does the VA require a termite inspection?
In many states the VA does require a wood-destroying insect report, and in most of those the veteran may not pay for it, so the seller or the lender covers it. Which states require it and who pays is set by the VA regional loan centre serving the property, so it varies by location. This is separate from a general home inspection and does not replace one.
What happens if the VA appraisal finds a problem?
The appraiser issues the appraisal subject to repairs. The named items must be fixed and re-inspected before the loan can close. Common triggers are peeling paint on pre-1978 homes, a non-functioning heating system, exposed wiring, a failing roof, broken windows, or unsafe steps without a handrail. Either the seller fixes them, or the deal restructures, or it fails.
Can you waive the home inspection to make your VA offer stronger?
You can, and in competitive markets buyers do, but it is a poor trade on a VA purchase specifically. A zero-down buyer has no equity cushion, so an unexpected $14,000 roof in year one has to come from savings rather than from equity. Waiving the contingency while still having the inspection performed for information is a middle path some sellers will accept.
Does a VA appraisal check the roof, plumbing and electrics?
Only superficially. The appraiser confirms the roof is not actively leaking and has reasonable remaining life, that the plumbing works at the fixtures they test, and that there is no visibly unsafe wiring. They do not go on the roof, do not scope the sewer line, do not open the electrical panel, and do not test every outlet. An inspector does all of those things.
When should you schedule the home inspection on a VA purchase?
Immediately after the offer is accepted, before the appraisal is ordered where possible. The inspection contingency period is typically seven to ten days and it starts running at acceptance. Booking on day one leaves room to arrange specialist follow-ups if the general inspection flags something, and it avoids paying for an appraisal on a house you are about to walk away from.
The quick version
A VA loan requires an appraisal, not a home inspection. The appraisal is ordered by your lender, the appraiser is assigned by the VA, and its job is to establish market value and confirm the property clears a short list of safety and habitability requirements. It is not a condition report, it was never designed to be one, and treating it as one is the most expensive mistake available in the VA purchase process.
The home inspection is optional, costs $300 to $600, and is the only document in the transaction written for you rather than for the lender. It covers the roof, structure, electrical, plumbing, HVAC, water heater, attic, crawl space, windows and drainage in two to four hours, and it produces the repair list, the negotiating leverage and the ten-year maintenance plan the appraisal will never give you.
The case for it is stronger on a VA loan than on any other product, because a zero-down borrower who has financed the funding fee has no equity to draw on when something expensive fails in year one. Book it on the day your offer is accepted, attend it in person, add a sewer scope on anything built before about 1980, negotiate with a credit rather than a repair list, and keep the report afterwards as the maintenance schedule it actually is.
Watch two deadlines in particular: the contingency expiry, which is absolute and forfeits your right to withdraw the moment it passes, and the eleven-month mark on a new build, after which the workmanship warranty stops paying for what the inspection would have found.
This guide is general information, not lending, legal or professional inspection advice. VA minimum property requirements, termite report obligations and who may pay for them vary by VA regional loan centre and by state, lender overlays vary by lender, and contract terms including inspection contingencies vary by state and by brokerage form. Confirm your specific requirements with your lender, your real estate attorney or agent, and a licensed inspector before relying on anything here. Costs quoted are typical ranges and will differ in your market.
VA home loan program — the official source on VA appraisals, minimum property requirements, the appraisal fee schedule and what the VA does and does not require of a property.
Owning a home — independent guidance on the difference between appraisals and inspections, closing costs, seller credits and what to expect through the purchase process.
